Sunday, May 11, 2008

Dive Bags

I claim not credit for the following writeup. I found this on the net from Dolphin Scuba Center Sacramento - Thanks!

As soon as you invest in some quality dive gear, one thing becomes immediately apparent – you only have two hands! Many tedious trips back and forth from the car to the dive site will go a long way to convince you that you need a gear bag. Take the time to figure out which type of gear bag suits you, and you will save yourself an enormous amount of time and aggravation. For a quick jaunt to the beach for a leisurely afternoon of snorkeling, a duffel bag is often the best way to go. If you do a lot of shore diving, perhaps you would prefer a backpack gear bag. But if you are going to be hauling a lot of gear through airports, then probably a wheeled gear bag would best suit your needs. Don’t forget that there are specialty bags such as mask bags, regulator bags and dry bags to protect your delicate equipment from damage.

Duffel Bags – A duffel bag is a simple construction gear bag with a set of handles. There are two types of duffel bags, the ones that are constructed largely of mesh, such as the Edge Mesh Duffel Bag. It is made of PVC coated mesh that allows for durability while allowing air exchange to help dry out your gear. These bags are inexpensive and are perfect for stowing your gear on a dive boat in between dives. Other duffel-style bags, such as Dolphin’s Deep See Carrier Deluxe bag, offer better security, guarding against the casual observer seeing what is inside your gear bag. This is ideal for checking onto flights. The duffel can be locked and stored with peace of mind.

Backpack Bags – Backpack bags keep your hands free while transporting your gear to your destination. This type of bag is ideal for beach divers who do not want to drag a wheeled bag through the sand. Backpacks are also mesh or nylon construction, and most have a handle so you can switch from your backpack to hand-carry. Dolphin’s options range from the mesh backpacks such as the Edge Mesh Backpack to the deluxe Edge Mesh Roller Backpack Gear bag.

Wheeled Gearbags – Finally the top of the line is the wheeled gear bag. Sturdy and roomy, these gear bags have the world traveler in mind. They can be completely secured with locks for easy check-on at the airport. They tag along behind you as you leave the airport and board your dive boat at your final destination. Choose from Dolphin’s varied selections of wheeled gearbags such as the Deep See Tropical Wheeled Bag, the Edge Roller Backpack or the Oceanic Voyager 3.

Specialty Bags – You can’t dive without a regulator or a mask. Give these two necessary pieces of equipment the special care they need and protect them with their own bags. Also, if you have invested in a camera, don’t let it get wet! Pick up a dry bag. While you are at it, you can stuff your beach towel in there, along with your personal items that need to stay dry. Check out Edge’s and Deep See’s line of specialty gear bags and choose what is right for you.

CURRENTLY I OWN:
- only x 2 problue mesh bags (S$35 each)

Monday, April 28, 2008

Should I buy a Dive Computer?

My geeky self has been looking around eagerly at dive computers etc. But then I came across this thread that said this about the policies of dive computer:

I recieved my field manual for the expedition a couple days ago and their policies about dive computers are made very clear

"Dive computer - Not an essential item. All dives are planned using the RDP"

"Divers are not allowed to use a computer as a primary guage unless both divers carry a computer"

"Every dive, regardless of depth, will adopt a safty stop for at least three minutes at five metres.

They get strick about planning a dive and if anyone exceeds the depth that was planned in the predive planning session - The dive is terminated and a 5 metre stop before surfacing is immediatly initiated.

There are these alternatives for just logging: http://reefnet.ca/products/sensus/

Main reason for me to get are:
- not to ascend to fast [but there will be others ya?]
- too deep warning [same ans as above]
- know exactly how much to dive [only if there are SO MANY dives which usually ain't]

Hmm but after talking to my dad, he suggested that USD300 is a small price to pay for an additional safety feature, its not like its a must but it would help. SO being the techie geek that i am who cant resist to buy tech stuff, i've come up with a compromise - ill spend not more that USD250 on a dive computer.

After looking around, I know exactly what I want, its the Suunto Gekko. So does anyone have a 2nd hand one i can buy???

Mask Fog No More

Ever since I've been diving 12 years ago I've had problems with my mask fogging. So once and for all I got really tired of it and started to research everywhere and everything I could find on mask fogging. I'll try to share as much as I can. I do not claim all the credit nor responsibility for the information here - as mentioned, these are all my own opinions from my own personal research :)

THEORY OF FOG
  • Basically condensation happens when a moisture hits a cool surface.
  • In this case, your mask lens is this cool surface.
  • While you dive, the water outside cools the lens till it becomes great for condensation and thus fogging.
  • The 'water' comes from the humid air INSIDE the mask from your face moisture or any other moisture inside the mask.
  • So basically when this nice humid moisture ridden air hits the cool surface of the lens, it fogs.
THEORY OF NO FOG
  • Technically there is nothing you can do with moisture condensing on your lens.
  • What you CAN do is to make the moisture condense into a sheet of water that flows away to your base of your mask RATHER than sticking in little droplets on your lens (fog).
  • You won't even notice the moisture that way as it is just flowing invisibly down your lens.
  • So how we do this is by controlling the only variable we can...the lens itself.
  • The 2 general ideas are to keep the lens CLEAN and free of anything that will 'trap droplets' and make the lens SLIPPERY (for lack of a better word) to reduce surface tension so that water droplets can flow uninhibited down the lens.
Read on to find out more of how you can do this.

KEEPING THE LENS CLEAN
This is the part where you and your mask are at home. To see if your mask will fog or not, simply breathe into the inside of your mask and see if it fogs. All my masks fogged till you couldn't see through them at all!

For new masks, there is a residue (silicon) left over from the lens mounting process while manufacturing the dive mask. This residue causes your mask to collect fog (micro debris act as nuclei that causes water droplet formation). You'll need to remove this layer before using your mask otherwise it'll fog up.

For old/used masks, you'll still need to clear them from any oil, grime, salt, dust etc. left over from any previous usage or just poor storage (in dusty places). You can follow this same process to clean them up. Any of the above mentioned contaminants will cause fogging.

I tried using dish-washing detergent and even a semi floor scrub with micro suds that are supposed to be abrasive enough but no luck. Finally I took the popular option of using toothpaste (Colgate in this case) and a toothbrush (fine bristles) and started 'brushing' my mask. Brushed at it vigorously for like 5 mins or more.

I breathed into the mask again and this time I saw that the part I had scrubbed did NOT fog! I was ecstatic and started frantically applying more toothpaste and scrubbed away focusing on those areas where fog was present. 2nd time, the non-fog area got bigger but there were a few more spots that still fogged. Being the perfectionist that I am, I repeated this step over and over again. Till at last after about 7 washes, the mask was completely clear. Be sure to wash away all residue left from this process. For me, I rinsed it about 3 times and then soaked it overnight in a pail of water.

If you happen to have cold water with you, you can 'cool' the lens with it before blowing your hot breath on the inside of it. This would improve the 'foggability' of the lens for testing purposes.

Some people wash their masks this way twice a day for an entire week before they dive. For me the principle is still the same, make sure its clean. You never know how 'well' relatively you wash a mask so just keep testing and trust your instinct.

Also take note that you'll have to wash the ENTIRE mask as sometimes the insides are greasy and oily too (skirting, nose area etc.).

You can never wash too much with toothpaste.

Heard some rumors about different manufacturers having different quality of lenses that are more prone to fogging. Have no idea how valid this statement is, anyone can verify?

Heard you can use wet newspaper as an alternative to toothbrushes, haven't tried it yet but theoretically sounds ok.

By the way, the masks used in this exercise should anyone be curious are the Atomic Frameless, Mares X Vision, a normal Problue and Saeko Mask.

ALTERNATIVE METHODS

Some people products like Sea Buff and Jaws to clean the masks but for me plain old toothpaste worked just fine + its cheaper.

Some other people like to literally burn off the silicon by using a lighter. As I am a coward and love my mask too much to burn it, I did not try it so if you want to, do it at your own risk.

WARNING

There has been some words that some masks already come 'treated' and require no cleaning. These masks usually have a tag labelled 'No Abrasives' or something. Really not sure about these kind of masks, all I've read about is 'Sea Dive' one with some coating inside. Anyone have more information on this feel free to let me know.

If you happen to try 'fogging' your mask again after the mask dries off, you'll notice it fogs right up again! Please relax and don't worry, its because you'll need to move on the next important part. Read on...

TREATING THE LENS / DEFOGGING THE MASK

Once the lens is clean, defogging should be simple. For people who skipped the lens cleaning part, unless you're really lucky, your lens is probably gonna fog up no matter how much expensive defogger you use or even if you spit yourself dry. This is cause the layers of silicon or grime won't allow the defoggers to stick and can even trap droplets.

As mentioned above, the objective of defogging is to reduce the surface tension of the lens so that droplets do not form on the lens.

A good treatment should ideally (in order):
  • should not hurt your eyes!
  • be simple to do and easy to do in various situations
  • be hardy enough to withstand some mask clearings
  • be cheap and cost efficient
  • be dignified and not gross (you'll understand why later)

After a lot of experimentation and research, this is what I personally do:
  1. First prepare your mask with J&J (non-diluted) and let it dry (6 hours at least)
  2. Get a small spray bottle with 50/50 J&J and water (you should bring more coz everyone will want to borrow it). Spray it on the mask before diving, use a CLEAN finger to 'clean up' the excess J&J from the initial prep (If you don't have a spray bottle you can just skip this step and move on. Its pretty much the same).
  3. If its still too much, then add some fresh water (a little!) and swirl it around and pour out.
  4. Your mask should just be clear enough for you to be able to see through quite clearly and then jump in.
Some Pointers:
  • Be sure to hold the mask tightly to your face otherwise.
  • Be careful of potential contaminants like hair gel, suntan oil etc. This will really fog up your mask if it gets inside.
  • Related to the above point, really know how to put on your mask such that you don't rub your face all over it, get your hair or ears caught inside it or the straps etc. I know its basic but you'll be surprised how much this helps.
  • Be WARNED that J&J causes the mask to be really slippery so be prepared and hold on tightly to it.
  • Some people have all sorts of dilution ratios etc. Feel free to experiment. The only reason I can see for diluting it is so that you don't have to use water do spread it.
  • DO NOT USE Rain X or even toothpaste as your defogger, yes it works and its cheap BUT it will hurt/irritate your eyes.
  • You'll have to always be conscious of your mask through the whole pre dive set up (putting on BCD, fins etc) so that you don't contaminate it.
Crisis: You did not prepare your mask in advance with J&J.
No worries: Just put some UNDILUTED drops into the mask before you dive and use your CLEAN finger and spread it around. Use a LITTLE FRESH water should you really can't see through. If not just go ahead.

Crisis: You do not have J&J or have run out.
No worries: Ok just substitute J&J with any other commercial defogger like 500 PSI or Sea Gold. Not the most cost efficient but well its not ideal.

Crisis: You don't have J&J nor any other defogger.
No worries: Just substitute with your own spit. Yes its gross and some people frown on it but well, there is no choice right.

TEST 'DIVE' EXPERIENCE
Just to share my 'testing experiences with you all'. Went to a swimming pool to test out the fogginess of the mask after treatment. After swimming up and down (to generate facial heat), will take off the mask and blow even more hot breath into it if it still doesn't fog. Following which, I went to rinse/clear the mask completely with water and repeat the above again.

Method: J&J already coat and dried on the mask, use a little water, swirl around and throw out.
Result: Generally worked very well and lasted about 3 mask clearings before fogging up.

Method: Add J&J to an already wet mask, use a little water, swirl around and throw.
Result: Lasted only 1 mask clearing before fogging up

Method: Add J&J to an already wet mask, DO NOT use water to rinse out.
Result: Initially a bit blur and hurt my eyes a little, cleared up after awhile, lasted 2-3 clears.

IN BETWEEN DIVES
So you had a fog free first dive (hopefully), if you want to keep the rest of your day like that you'll have to invest some time in keeping your mask in good shape for the next dive.
  • Right on the onset, try to keep your mask as clean as possible by washing out any sea water or dirt that has gone in.
  • Then just apply your defogger (whatever you choose to use) and let it set as per what you did even before the 1st dive.
  • Keep your mask away from any containments etc. If you choose to keep it back in its box, MAKE SURE that the straps don't touch the inside of the lens as they will be very contaminated. You can just lengthen your mask and wrap the straps around outside the mask.
Masks get contaminated at the slightest quickest contact so be advised!

STUFF TO HAVE A FOG FREE MASK
  • Johnson's and Johnson's No Tears Shampoo
  • Spray bottle (even if its just water, its useful)
  • Colgate
  • Toothbrush (Fine Bristles)
  • Fresh water
Bring ALL of the above on your trip as well.

POST DIVE CARE
  • Wash your mask thoroughly with your toothbrush and toothpaste.
  • Soak your mask in mild detergent or just fresh water.
  • Dry your mask thoroughly and store in a box preferably in a cool dry place.

CONCLUSION
With all that said, please don't forget your other procedures for safe diving. Having a foggy mask is much better than drowning so try not to be too obsessed with it till you forget every other MORE IMPORTANT things.

Well ok here you go, hope this helps - If you disagree or have more tips/suggestions etc. Please please just let me know - we're all trying to get this right ya? :)

Tuesday, April 22, 2008

Dive Trip - Turtle Wreck

We're going diving on next month to turtle wreck aka igara. It's been more than a year since our last dive in Cebu where I got seriously stung by a jelly fish. We'll be staying on a live onboard and it'll be the first time i ever tried staying on one. Heard some bad things about the place already but am just glad to be diving and taking a break :D

Here is more info on the boat we'll be on: The Bintang Explorer

Wooden hull with fiberglass top. Twin engine ( 250 hp V8 ) cruising at 10 knots. Year build: 1999

Length: 75 feet Beam: 15 feet Fuel: 7,000 liters Water: 10,000 liters


Equipment on board: Long & short range radios, GPS, VCD & TV, Depth sounder, Phone patch, First aid & medical kit, O2 kit, E6 processor, Film scanner, Tender boat, Bauer compressor, 30 tanks, Weights (without belts)

Sleeps 20 pax in aircon cabin with privacy curtains on each bunk, 3 showers/toilet (cold water only), diving platform. 3 main meals a day, Chinese cooking. No pork. Free flow of coffee, tea, drinking water (water dispenser), biscuits,

Here is more info and the WIKI

Info on the Igara

At the time of her sinking the IGARA was the largest ever single marine insurance loss in maritime history.

Valued at over 25M USD loaded with 127,718 tonnes of Brazilian Iron Ore the 136,400 dwt Italian ore/oil steamship Igara was on voyage from Vitoria to Muroran when after pasing through the Sunda Strait, she struck an unchartered rock in the South China sea about 190 miles from Horsborough Lighthouse, off Mendarik Island, on March 11th 1973. However she did not sink immediately but continued her voyage until her bow settled submered and resting on the sea bottom in 120feet of water about 70 miles from Singapore. She settled with her entire stern section sticking out of the water. The following day 27 of the 38 man crew abandoned ship being picked up in their lifeboats by passing vessels. The master and 10 crew stayed on board until March 19th when she began to break across hold no.1. Salvors used explosives to cut through the ship at hold no. 1 and the entire rear section of the ship was towed to Japan where a new forward section was attached and she was renamed the ERACLIDE.

When you dive the Igara just consider that what you are seeing is only half the original ship! DrMike

Name

Igara (Bow Section)

Type

S Oil/Ore Carrier

Flag

Italian

Position Quality

Precisely known

Date Sunk

12/03/1973

Last Amended

22/08/2000

Orientation

060/240

General Depth

38 msw

Least Depth

11.0 msw

Length

297.2 m

Beam

40.8 m

Draught

22.3 m

Tonnage

72741

Cargo

127718 Tons Iron Ore

Comments

Upright, Bow Sw.